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Filho de compositor de sambas-enredo campeão na Vila Isabel, Leonel, Leozinho teve toda a sua infância dentro da agremiação. Foi integrante da escola mirim Herdeiros da Vila, desfilando entre meados dos anos de 1999 e 2000 teve a oportunidade de ingressar no projeto social da adereços e fantasias. Nascia ali, o futuro figurinista que, por tamanho destaque na oficina, ganhou um estágio no barracão de alegorias da escola mãe, tecendo o início da jornada dentro do carnaval. Confira abaixo a conversa que a equipe de reportagem do site CARNAVALESCO teve com o Leozinho.
COMO INICIOU O ATELIÊ
“Quando eu ganhei o estágio no barracão da Vila, conheci o Pedrão (Pedro dos Santos), meu parceiro e sócio, mas não estávamos satisfeitos e um dia meu pai foi ao barracão e me perguntou se eu estava gostando, disse não, e, que eu queria fazer fantasia. Ele me mandou sair de lá, virou meu primeiro sócio e abriu o ateliê comigo, isso em 2003”.
OS PRIMEIROS FIGURINOS
“Não tínhamos muita credibilidade, ninguém nos conhecia. Mas conseguimos pegar algumas fantasias de ala da Vila Isabel, Rocinha e Tuiuti. Com o campeonato da Vila, muitas escolas nos procuraram para fazermos as roupas do ano seguinte e aí começamos a fazer os casais de mestre-sala e porta-bandeira e comissão de frente”.
A CONSOLIDAÇÃO DO ATELIÊ
“Em 2009, a Porto da Pedra contratou a gente para fazer o primeiro casal da escola e eles não tinham dinheiro para investir. Tive que reinventar e decidi pintar os faisões da fantasia anterior, para a cor dourada e isso foi o maior boom. Todos queriam saber como havia sido feito, daí nos consolidamos e nos fixamos no Grupo de Acesso e Especial”.
FANTASIAS EM SÃO PAULO
“As escolas de lá sempre nos procuraram, mas acabávamos não pegando pelo fato do carnaval aqui nos consumir muito e não termos tempo para estar sempre por lá. Com a internet, essa questão mudou e nos aproximou mais. Ano passado, o Chico Spinoza pediu para fazermos o primeiro casal do Vai-Vai e a escola foi campeã. Isso nos consagrou e já temos conversas lá para quando o carnaval voltar.
NESTE PERÍODO DE PANDEMIA O QUE ESTÁ FAZENDO PARA SOBREVIVER
“Quando começou a pandemia eu estava de férias. Além do carnaval, fazemos teatro, cinema, mas o forte é o carnaval. Em maio eu fiquei nervoso e aí comecei a confeccionar peças para decoração de casa, como a Nossa Senhora Aparecida, cortinas, quadros, almofadas e foi o que consegui fazer para sobreviver. Perdemos 80% da nossa receita. Está sendo muito difícil, mas estamos sobrevivendo”.
A FALTA DE AJUDA POR PARTE DO PODER PÚBLICO
“É revoltante para todos nós, profissionais do carnaval. O poder público tem que se meter nisso sim. É do carnaval que a cidade e o estado lucram muito com os impostos vindos com a hotelaria, vendas, trabalhos etc”.
NESTE PERÍODO QUAL SERIA A DEMANDA NO ATELIÊ
“As escolas estariam definindo os seus enredos. Em Junho os carnavalescos começam a desenhar os protótipos e me ligam dizendo o que estão pensando dos figurinos e em julho começamos a confecção das roupas. Empregamos 15 funcionários fixos, mas temos muitos terceirizados”.
QUAL FANTASIA DEU MAIS TRABALHO PARA FAZER
“A primeira porta-bandeira da Mangueira em 2016. Digamos que não deu trabalho, ela foi mais elaborada. Um processo de estudo gigantesco, pois, ela vinha com uma maquiagem artística na cabeça para ficar careca, representando uma Iaô, exigindo uma caracterização impecável”.
RELAÇÃO COM OS CARNAVALESCOS NO PROCESSO DE CONFECÇÃO
“No passado era mais difícil, não podíamos optar em muitas coisas do projeto e se fizéssemos algo diferente dava um desgaste muito grande. Hoje, mudou muito. Eles entregam os desenhos e nos dão autonomia para criarmos do nosso jeito, isso possibilita e muito o processo de laboratório de cada roupa.
DIA DOS DESFILES
“Eu e o Pedrão não vemos nem a avenida. Levamos uma equipe de 10 pessoas com a gente e ficamos na concentração montando todos os casais e comissão de frente. Cada roupa vai com dois integrantes do ateliê até o final do desfile para caso aconteça algum imprevisto durante a apresentação. Isso aqui e em São Paulo”.
MAIOR EXIGÊNCIA DAS ESCOLAS
“Segredo de cada figurino. Os meus funcionários não fazem fotos das roupas antes dos desfiles, as provas de figurinos são divididas em dias e horários para cada agremiação”.
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